맥주의 재료- 과일향 맥주의 비밀을 찾아서

오늘도 어김없이 방구석에 처박혀있던 내게 H는 맥주 한 병을 내민다. 새로 수입되는 미국 수제맥주 시음회에 다녀왔단다. 맥주를 잔에 따르니 상큼한 과일향이 물씬 난다. 오렌지, 자몽 정도 넣었겠군. 100% 과즙인가, 설탕도 들어간 건가. 
궁금한 마음에 라벨의 원료명을 보니 정제수, 맥아, 홉, 효모라고 돼 있다. 응? 재료를 다 안 써놓은 건가?
“맥주도 식품의 하나로 들어간 모든 재료를 표기하도록 법으로 규정돼 있어.” H의 말. 잘난 척 할까봐 안 물어보려고 했는데 빌미를 줘버렸네. 
근데 진짜야? 과일을 안 넣었는데 어떻게 이런 맛이 나?

맥주의 주 재료는 맥아, 홉, 효모, 물이다. 이 네 가지 재료를 어떻게 조합하느냐에 따라 수백, 수천가지의 맥주가 만들어진다. 이 재료만으로 과일, 꽃, 바나나부터 비스킷, 초콜릿에 이르기까지 다양한 풍미를 만들어낼 수 있다. 이 세상에 마셔볼 맥주가 셀 수 없이 많이 있는 이유가 바로 이것이다. 
   

맥주의 조미료 홉(Hop)


생홉(위)과 홉 펠릿

 홉은 덩굴식물의 암꽃이다. 초록색의 작은 솔방울처럼 생겼다. 
전 세계 홉의 종류는 300종에 이르는 것으로 알려져 있고 지금 이 순간에도 새로운 홉 품종이 탄생하고 있다. 
이 다양한 홉들은 모두 다른 특색을 가지고 있다. 과일향이라고 광범위하게 표현되지만 각 홉이 가진 성분에 따라 각기 감귤류향, 포도류향, 열대과일향, 핵과일향 등을 낸다. 또 송진, 후추, 허브에서 흙에 이르기까지 여러 느낌을 홉이 만들어낸다. 이런 홉들을 잘 섞어 양조에 활용해 원하는 맥주 맛을 구현하는 것이다. 홉의 풍미는 인디아 페일 에일(IPA), 페일 에일(Pale ale), 필스너(Pilsner) 등에서 쉽게 느낄 수 있다. 
홉은 또 맥주의 쌉쌀한 맛도 만들어내고 맥주가 오랜 시간 상하지 않게 하는 방부제 역할도 한다. 
홉는 생홉으로 쓰이기도 하고 홉을 건조해 압축한 펠릿(pellet) 형태로도 쓰인다. 맥주 양조장에서는 대부분 펠릿 형태의 홉을 활용한다. 가까운 곳에 홉 농장이 있지 않으면 생홉은 구하기 어렵고 펠릿 형태가 운반, 보관, 활용에 용이하기 때문이다. 

바나나맛와 알싸함을 만드는 효모(이스트)

효모는 맥주의 발효를 전담하는 매우 중요한 역할을 한다. 효모의 발효를 통해서 맥주의 정체성이라고 할 수 있는 알코올과 이산화탄소가 만들어지기 때문이다. 바이젠(Weizen) 같은 맥주 스타일에서 나타나는 바나나향과 후추 같은 알싸한 느낌은 효모가 발효시키면서 나온 부산물에서 나온다. 
맥주 종류를 분류할 때 가장 큰 줄기라고 할 수 있는 라거(Lager)와 에일(Ale)의 구분도 사실 효모의 차이다. 10℃ 전후에서 발효를 잘하는 특성을 갖고 있는 라거 효모로 발효시킨 맥주는 라거로 불리고 20℃ 전후에서 왕성한 활동을 하는 에일 효모로 발효시킨 맥주는 에일이다. 에일 효모는 발효하면서 더 많은 성분을 만들어내기 때문에 일반적으로 라거보다 에일의 향이 더 풍부하다고 느끼게 된다. 
이밖에 공기 중에 떠다니는 야생 효모로 맥주를 만들기도 한다. 
  

고소함과 곡물의 단맛은 맥아(몰트)에서

다양한 몰트

맥주의 재료는 보리가 아니라 싹 틔운 보리, 즉 맥아다. 식혜의 재료인 엿기름이라고 생각하면 된다. 빵과 비스킷 같은 풍미, 곡물을 오래 씹었을 때 나는 단맛. 커피, 초콜릿, 캐러멜, 건과일의 느낌을 맥아가 만들어낸다. 
또 맥아는 맥주의 색상을 결정한다. 커피콩을 로스팅하는 것처럼 맥아도 볶는 과정을 거치는데 이 때 얼마나 볶느냐에 따라 맥아의 색깔이 결정된다. 그리고 진한 색의 맥아 사용량에 따라 차례대로 붉은색 맥주, 갈색 맥주, 어둠과 같이 까만 맥주가 만들어진다. 
맥주를 만들 때 곡물로는 보리가 가장 많이 쓰이지만 밀, 옥수수, 귀리, 쌀, 호밀, 수수 등도 활용된다. 
  

물 속의 미네랄이 결정하는 맥주의 맛

물은 맥주의 90% 이상을 차지하는 원료다. 물 속에 들어있는 미네랄의 종류와 양이 맥주의 맛에 영향을 미치게 된다. ‘물이 좋아 맥주 맛이 좋다’는 말은 맥주 스타일에 맞게 물에 미네랄이 함유돼 있다는 뜻.
영국의 버톤온트렌트 지역에서 페일 에일이 탄생했고 체코 필젠 지역에 필스너 스타일이 유명한 것도 해당 지역 물의 특성에 기인한다. 영국 버톤온트렌트의 물은 경수로 칼슘, 마그네슘 많이 함유하고 있고 필젠은 미네랄이 적은 물이 주를 이룬다. 현대에 와서는 물을 정수한 후 맥주별로 필요한 미네랄을 풀어 사용하기 때문에 지역별 물의 차이는 중요하지 않은 요소가 됐다. 
  
이밖에 맥주에도 과일이 들어가는 경우가 있다. 과일 람빅과 같은 스타일이다. 또 벨기에식 밀맥주에는 고수의 씨앗, 오렌지껍질 같은 게 들어가기도 한다. 
임페리얼 스타우트에는 커피, 초콜릿, 카카오닙스 등 스타일의 특성을 부각시키고 개성을 불어넣어주기 위한 부재료가 다양하게 쓰이기도 한다. 굴, 가재를 넣는 맥주도 있다. 
  

방구석을 벗어나볼까 – <홉 수확 이벤트>

홉 넝쿨

1980년대까지만 해도 강원도 등지에서 큰 규모로 홉을 길렀다. 맥주 회사들이 국산 홉으로 맥주를 만들다가 가격이 저렴한 수입산이 들어오면서 홉 농가들이 자취를 감추게 됐다. 
최근 다시 국내에 홉을 재배하는 곳들이 늘고 있다. 수제맥주 양조장에서 홉을 사용하기 위해 직접 농장을 운영하는 경우도 있고 홉을 키워 판매하는 곳도 있다. 
일반인들에게 홉 수확 체험 기회를 주는 홉 농장도 있다. 홉을 따고 나서 맥주를 마시면서 즐길 수 있는 하나의 축제다. 
일반적으로 홉의 수확기는 8월 중순에서 말 정도다. 

○ 뱅크크릭 브루잉
충북 제천 솔티마을에 자리잡은 뱅크크릭 브루잉에서는 일반인들을 모집해 홉 수확 축제를 개최한다. 뱅크크릭 브루잉을 비롯한 여섯 농가가 1만9834㎡(6000평) 규모로 홉을 재배하고 있다. 올해 9월 1일에도 150여명이 솔티마을에 모여 홉 수확 체험을 하고 맥주와 바비큐를 즐겼다. 
뱅크크릭 브루잉 페이스북(@bankcreek)에서 관련 정보를 확인할 수 있다. 

○ 핸드앤몰트 
핸드앤몰트는 경기 청평에 홉 농장을 운영하고 있다. 올해는 홉 수확 이벤트를 열지 않았지만 작년과 재작년에는 일반인들로부터 신청을 받아 홉 수확, 브루어리 투어, 바비큐 파티를 진행했다. 핸드앤몰트 농장에서 수확된 신선한 홉으로는 한정판 하베스트 IPA가 만들어진다. 내년의 홉 수확 이벤트를 기대하며 핸드앤몰트 페이스북(@thehandandmalt)을 주목해본다. 

황지혜의 방구석 맥주여행 1 https://mnews.joins.com/article/23038785

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